Re: Breakout PCB & Motorola monitor - questions for everyone!!!!

From: Rodger Boots <rlboots_at_cedar-rapids.net>
Date: Tue Sep 26 2000 - 03:45:38 EDT

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If I remember correctly, the H series of voltage regulators were good for
5 amps.&nbsp; No need to change it.&nbsp; You might try using BOTH the
8000 AND the pair of 4700 uF capacitors together to minimize the valleys
of the filtered DC ripple.
<p>OR you could rewind the existing transformer, if it isn't currently
running very hot.&nbsp; (I'm not necessarily joking about this, but don't
try it unless you think you're up to the challenge).
<p>If there is still room on the transformer for additional turns (not
usually).&nbsp; On a large transformer they might be getting out as much
as a volt per turn, so we aren't talking much here.
<p>Another possibility is to boost the primary voltage to the transformer.&nbsp;
You want 16.5, you have 15.&nbsp; That's a boost of 16.5*100/15 = 110%
of the current line voltage.&nbsp; So take a small (at least one amp) 12
volt transformer, connect its primary to the line and the secondary in
series with your large transformer's primary.&nbsp; If you get the phasing
wrong it will further reduce the output of your large transformer.&nbsp;
If you get it right, though, the output should slide right up where you
need it.
<br>&nbsp;
<p>Paul Sommers wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Rodger,</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I pretty much came to the same
conclusion last night. Here's what I did...</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Turned it on with no game board
- there was small ripples on&nbsp; screen edges (no sync or signal) but
no humbars.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I replaced the old 8000uf with
2x4700uf. No difference.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I went back and looked at the
schematic for the paddle problem. I then tried adding a 1uf lytic between
pin 5 of the 555 and GND. There is still paddle flutter, but it is constant
across the screen at about a half inch rather than up to 2 inches on the
extremes.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I then tried a 10uf in the
same spot but it went back to the big paddle flutter. I suspect the 10uf
was big enough to affect the timing.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">There was nothing left to look
at except the voltage regulator - UA78H05S (of which I can find no info).
Checking against the schematic this is not the original - it should be
a LM323 which is rated at 3amps. All the 7805's that I could find were
rated at 1 amp or 500ma.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">As I can't get a LM323 in Australia
I started to look on the web for an equiv and that's when it hit me.....</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">The original transformer put
out 16.5vac to the board. The transformer I was able to find is only 15vac.
I thought it would be enough as most voltage regulators have a bit of tolerance.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Checking the 5v at the chips
gave me 4.94v... pretty close.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">I did a check of the local
electronic distributors catalogue and they have one at 18vac. I'm thinking
I should try this. The spec sheet on the common 7805 and the LM323 says
that it should handle both voltages, but maybe it doesn't have enough grunt.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">But now looking at your mail
I could run into the problem if I go too high as well....</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">No-one has a 16.5vac transformer.
Why on earth did Atari used such weird voltages????</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Thanks for working with me
on this one.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Cheers</font></font>
<br><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Paul</font></font>
<br>&nbsp;
<ul><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>----------</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>From:</font></font></b>&nbsp;&nbsp;
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Rodger Boots</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Reply To:</font></font></b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>rasterlist@synthcom.com</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Sent:</font></font></b>&nbsp;&nbsp;
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Tuesday, 26 September 2000 03:16</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>To:</font></font></b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>rasterlist@synthcom.com</font></font>
<br><b><font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Subject:</font></font></b>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
<font face="Geneva"><font size=-1>Re: RASTER: Breakout PCB &amp; Motorola
monitor - questions for everyone!!!!</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial">You know, I didn't really think about it, but the
problem might be the replacement transformer!&nbsp; Check your +5 volts
on the game board and see if it is too high or too low.&nbsp; Voltmeter
OK, but scope is even better.&nbsp; None of this applies if you have only
ONE humbar.</font>
<p><font face="Arial">Possibility one, too low.&nbsp; In this case either
the capacitor is bad OR the transformer voltage is too low, causing the
regulator to drop out of regulation.</font>
<p><font face="Arial">Possibility two, too high.&nbsp; In this case, since
this is an early Atari board, the voltage peaks (if high enough) can cause
the regulator to quit regulating.&nbsp; What happens is these old boards
run most of their current through a large resistor connected across the
regulator with the regulator picking up the last little bit of current.&nbsp;
Otherwise the regulator will overheat and shut down.&nbsp; Now, IF the
transformer voltage were too high, the regulator current would drop to
zero and ALL the current would go through the resistor.&nbsp; This would
happen during voltage peaks and cause the +5 volts to increase (but only
during the peaks).</font>
<p><font face="Arial">What got me thinking about all this is that the problem
didn't start until the transformer got changed.&nbsp; If you do have a
high voltage condition and you are lucky enough to have a higher voltage
primary transformer setting available (example, you currently are using
the 110 volt tap and switch to using the 120 volt tap) you can fix it that
way.</font>
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<p><font face="Arial">Rodger Boots wrote:</font>
<ul>&nbsp;
<p><font face="Arial">Paul Sommers wrote:</font>
<ul>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">The
8000uf at 80v won't fit on the board (the one that is their is surface
mount) so I'll get a couple of big ones in series - that should do it.</font>
BUT, before we get too carried away with this, I have a question.&nbsp;
Is there ONE hum bar or TWO?&nbsp; Very simple rule here:</font>
<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<font face="Arial">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
ONE hum bar = bad rectifier (or fuseholder in series with rectifier)</font>
<br><font face="Arial">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; TWO hum bars = filter capacitor
problem.</font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">That's a good tip to remember.
No hum bars. It's a continuous wave.</font></font>
<p><font face="Arial"><font color="#0000FF">Imagine a grayscale light to
dark - then put another on with the light side butted to the dark edge.
There is no break - it just keeps coming. It's a vertical monitor - so
it is going across the screen(or down/up if it was horiziontal). I guess
if two hum bars mean a filter cap problem - 8 could mean a bad filet cap
problem.</font></font>
<br>&nbsp;</ul>
<font face="Arial">OK, you're saying you have TWO dark waves?&nbsp; Or
two greyscales?&nbsp; Whatever, if there are two of anything the capacitor
(8,000 uF) is bad.</font></ul>
<font face="Arial">--</font>
<br><font face="Arial">Windows:</font>
<p><font face="Arial">32 bit graphical interface for a</font>
<br><font face="Arial">16 bit patch for an</font>
<br><font face="Arial">8 bit operating system written for a</font>
<br><font face="Arial">4 bit processor by a</font>
<br><font face="Arial">2 bit company that can't stand</font>
<br><font face="Arial">1 bit of competition.</font>
<br>&nbsp;</ul>
</blockquote>

<p>--
<br>Windows:
<p>32 bit graphical interface for a
<br>16 bit patch for an
<br>8 bit operating system written for a
<br>4 bit processor by a
<br>2 bit company that can't stand
<br>1 bit of competition.
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Received on Tue Sep 26 08:20:12 2000

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