Re: Question about the Tempest marquee repros

We try a variety of solvents, starting with Varsol, and progressing through
rubbing alcohol, to Methyl Hydrate...I would recommend that it is done
outdoors for MH, and no sparks etc around for the others as well! A
scrapper that is a one sided razor blade held at a low angle works very
well, you need to flip it over regularly to avoid it getting too sharp and
catching the edge. Lastly if you heat the overlay FIRST with a hot air gun,
the glue will often come off with the old overlay...for those with a pyro
background, you can burn the stuff off, but definitely outside-toxic stuff
comes off in this case!!!

John :-#)#

At 11:20 PM 2/22/2000 -0500, you wrote:
>Roy/All,
>
>I've got an NOS Tempest marquee on hand, and expect to have one of Steve's
>repros in later on this week. Will be happy to provide what comparison I
>can, though I'm sure I won't have the eye for it that Roy has.
>
>Speaking of this marquee, this brings me around to the subject of prepping
>for a new overlay install. I've been having a hell of a time getting the
>old marquee frame and parts ready to accept the new overlay. It's one thing
>to douse a CP with thinner, then scrape with a putty knife, but this wood
>frame's something else entirely. I've got the overlay itself off, and am in
>the process of trying to remove the adhesive residue from the frame (glass &
>mesh screen were no problem). I've been trying to scrape carefully, then
>planning on following up with a good sanding and a fresh coat of paint. Is
>this the way? Any insights on how to proceed from those who've done this
>before?
>
>(Note: this HAS to be the most unpleasant task a collector has to face...
>geez, what a mess!)
>
>Very respectfully,
>Kristopher Sandrick
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: chumblespuzz <chumblespuzz@home.com>
>To: vectorlist@synthcom.com <vectorlist@synthcom.com>
>Date: Tuesday, February 22, 2000 8:56 PM
>Subject: Re: VECTOR: Question about the Tempest marquee repros
>
>
> >Gee, I love it when I see a post with my name in it. :)
> >
> >Actually, I've had a hard disk crash recently, and I'm barely using my
> >current computer taking this opportunity to get a new *hot* machine (great
> >for making repros ;). Sorry for not contributing a lot lately. :)
> >
> >Anyway, the original marquee used 4-color process for producing the center
> >image portion. As opposed to getting really solid colors, this technique
> >ends up looking like a poor quality scan (when viewed up close). The
> >advantage of this technique is the variety of colors produced. The
> >disadvantage is the resolution. If you look closely at a photo in a
>magazine
> >you will see the same kind of dithering, except the screens used in
> >magazines are a much finer resolution.
> >
> >The center artwork is very complex and is unlike the art found on CPOs.
>This
> >image probably started life as a painting which was scanned and screens
>were
> >made. When I planned on reproducing these, I scanned the image from an
> >original with the intention of embedding it in smoothly redrawn borders. I
> >was going to scan it at 600 DPI, but I found that a 300 DPI scan was
> >completely adequate. The resolution of the original was so low that it
> >didn't benefit from the additional scan resolution.
> >
> >I assume that FabFan (or Steve G) did exactly that. The question is did
>they
> >do it well enough. My only experience with Steve's art is his Tempest CPO.
> >It was good in terms of material quality but not truly faithful to the
> >original art. That is partly due to the fact that the entire CPO needed to
> >be redrawn. As the marquee is probably mostly a scan of the original my
> >guess is it's pretty good.
> >
> >I haven't seen one, some I'm not endorsing it, but where else are you going
> >to find a new marquee for your Tempest for $45?
> >
> >I'd love to hear an A/B comparison from someone who has an original to
> >compare it to.
> >
> >-roy->
>
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  Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
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Received on Wed Feb 23 00:37:56 2000