Re: Anybody done John's Raster Hack for Ampliphone?

Hmmm...re-read...novel concept...You do have to take the cover off the end
of the tube socket Focus so you can replace the old Focus wire with the new
one, or cut the Focus wire and splice in the new wire from the raster
chassis. Do the same for the Screen. You should not be sticking any wires
into the socket or making solderless connections - if the wire should
loosed and fall and touch something else that would not be good...

Now the heater power. You are getting this from the raster chassis now and
not the old Ampliphone (which would be removed by this time...). The heater
lines come from the flyback of the 4600 and (I believe) have the resistor
as part of the wiring on the 4600 chassis, if it is not on the chassis, but
is on the 4600 neckboard (which is no longer used 'cause you are recycling
the Ampliphone's neckboard) would then have to be added in series with one
heater line.

Why not send me a couple of pictures of what you currently have and I'll
see if I can figure out what is happening. Try and show the wires
separately, perhaps put a white paper behind them so they stand out better...

I'd like to see this work for you...

John :-#)#

At 01:00 AM 04/08/2002 -0500, Gregg Woodcock wrote:

>----- Original Message -----
>From: "John Robertson" <pinball@telus.net>
>To: <vectorlist@synthcom.com>; <vectorlist@synthcom.com>
>Sent: Sunday, August 04, 2002 12:41 AM
>Subject: Re: VECTOR: Anybody done John's Raster Hack for Ampliphone?
>
>
> > Hi Greg (et all),
> >
> > Sounds like something here is wrong...what do you mean about "I clipped a
>3
> > (5?) Watt carbon resistor's leads and soldered one to each of those two
> > wires"? I don't recall adding any resistors to either the Focus or Screen
> > lines.
>
>Re-read. I just wanted the legs to make "stiff wires" so that I could poke
>them into the 4600 neck board and make a "solderless connection" to G2 and
>focus on the 4600 neck PCB. The point is I removed the 2 wires from the
>point where they attacked to the old wiper controls (i.e. under the black
>rubber insulators) and poked them into the neck socket pins of the 4600 neck
>board.
>
> > As I recall the Focus wire goes directly to the socket pin #1,
>
>Right but WHERE. If you add it outside the socket (on the wire), there's
>that huge resistor inside the Amplifone neck socket still in series. If you
>add it inside the socket, you can bypass this resistor. Should it be in
>series or not (for focus)?
>
> > and the Screen line goes to the terminal on the tube socket that
>originally
> > connected to the wiper of the Screen Potentiometer that was mounted on the
> > neck board (removed now).
>
>Right. That's what I did.
>
> > My question is about the heater lines. Did you hook them up to the correct
> > pins on the tube?
>
>I made no mods to the heater. Same as it always was on the proper pins.
>
> > There needs to be a 1 ohm 1 watt resistor in series to
> > reduce the inrush current to the tube (lengthens the filament life). You
> > should get 6.3VAC across the pins on the back of the neckboard on the
> > filaments pins to the tube socket. Check there.
>
>As I said last time, I am not. No 6.3VAC. That is the question; is there
>something missing from your procedure (something you actually did but didn't
>mention) or is there something screwy with mine. Remember, before I began,
>I *did* have heater glow.
>
> > If not present do a
> > continuity test with the neckboard unplugged (power off!) - you should see
> > something like 1 to 20 ohms I expect. It should not be an open circuit.
>
>Didn't measure the heater circuit (socket). Will check. Where does heater
>come from on Apmlifone? Is it right off the main transformer? Does it pass
>through or get genertated/modified by the deflection board?
>
> > Next check the same circuit with the neckboard plugged in, the resistance
> > should be much lower as you have added the picture tube heater in
>parallel...
>
>Right. This will be 1-ish/short for sure.
>
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Received on Sat Aug 3 23:33:32 2002