RE: A few WG6100 tips and tricks

First swap the neck board and see if that helps. Sometimes a bad neckboard can cause this type of thing. Also make sure your focus and screen are not reversed.

JB

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org [mailto:owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org] On Behalf Of Brian Deuel
Sent: Monday, April 12, 2004 9:02 PM
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Subject: Re: VECTOR: A few WG6100 tips and tricks

Oops. I also should have mentioned that the HV comes up fine and the heater glows.

Brian

>Thanks for the tips. I happen to be juggling three repairs right now.
>Here's a weird one for you:
>
>Installed both of Bob's kits (caps, transistors, extra parts) and the
>LV2000. Turn game on, fires up, hear deflection chatter, but the spot
>killer is on. All voltages are good. When I turn up the brightness, I get
>a bright "rainbow" pattern on the lower half of the screen. Not vectors,
>mind you. Just a bright horizontal rainbow effect.
>
>I've gone threw the FAQ and checked everything listed there. I've gone
>over the deflection board for bad solder joints, checked and
>quadruple-checked the chassis transistors for any kind of shorting (mind
>you, I didn't check their output voltage), and checked all of the
>connector/transistor socket connections for continuity.
>
>Any suggestions as to what I should next? Thanks for any help offered.
>
>Brian
>http://www.orubin.com
>
>*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
>On 4/12/2004 at 6:34 PM Joe wrote:
>
>>Just got done fixing several 6100's this week... and here's a few tips
>>for everyone.
>>
>>1. Don't use NTE 10 watt 1.5 ohm resistors. You need audio grade or non
>>inductive ones. One of these was on a board I got in and it was making
>>wavy lines on the bottom half of the screen after all else was repaired.
>>
>>2. Replace ZD902 with 2 75v 1 watt zener diodes end to end. (Positive of
>>one to negative of the other.) This will make a teepee sticking out of
>>your board... But, guess what, NTE 150v one watt zener is several dollars.
>>My fix will cost you under $.25 and last forever. The NTE part WILL fail.
>>This fix was told to me by Rick Schieve. I can't take the credit.
>>
>>3. Use MPSU57 and MPSU07's in place of the MPSA56 and MPSA06
>>(respectively) in the LV section. I HIGHLY recommend using the CEN-U07 and
>>CEN-U57 parts. They hold up just excellent - much better than the uniwatt
>>packages! If you do this, again, the LV section will be bullet proof. This
>>fix will cost you just a few $$$. The other upside of this is that when a
>>deflection transistor fails and begins to draw too much current through
>>the LV section, it will only blow the 15 ohm resistor. If you have an LV2k
>>in there, I hope you have surface mount soldering equipment. If you order
>>the transistors from me, I will throw in some free 15 ohm resistors, if
>>you ask.
>>
>>4. Run your game a little bit smaller than full screen. By doing this, the
>>deflection transistors won't need to work as hard. This means less heat
>>and longer life.
>>
>>If you have anything to add, please do.
>>
>>JB
>>
>>
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>

"We're all a bunch of spoiled brats, if you get right down to it. You just want to buy the meat in the store, you don't want to see Bambi getting cut up [laughs]. You want to protest fur walking around in your leather shoes. You want to talk the environment as you drive around in your Hummer 2. We're a study in contradictions, I think. The ultimate spoiled brats of the world."- Uncle Eugene Jarvis, the creator of Defender, Stargate, and Robotron

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