Also check you didn't fit a ROM in back to front :)
Sent from my iPhone
On 1 Jul 2012, at 11:33, Kevin Moore <talon.k@gmail.com> wrote:
> Also check the traces under the roms. Depending on what you used to pull them ie screw driver you may have lifted the tin from the copper and shorted a 5v line.
>
> On Jul 1, 2012 12:17 AM, "John Huie" <jehuie@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> Hey guys, I've only posted here a couple times because I'm such a newb that I am embarrassed sometimes but I thought maybe you could give me some pointers on this.
>
> I had a nice working Black Widow game and then acquired a spare complete PCB and decided to test it in my cabinet. When I put it in, it had issues I won't go into here but I decided to swap my roms from my working board onto that one to see if it helped. It did, but I got wonky video that's beyond my skill level so I figured I'd just swap the roms back onto the fully working board and sell the the other board as non working.
>
> However, when I swapped the roms back I got zilch from my original board. No LED came on and I wasn't getting +5 at the board. But putting the broken board back in still showed life so I knew it was something wrong with the PCB that was originally working fine.
>
> So....I screwed something up when I removed the roms or when I put them back. Now I've tested resistance between the +5 and the Ground test points and they are shorted together. Removing all the rom chips leads to the same result....they are still shorted.
>
> I'm stumped about how to figure out where the short is. Are there any tips or should I just assume this is once again beyond my skill level and send this thing off for repair now?
>
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Received on Sun Jul 1 07:17:28 2012
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