Re: Re: Omega Race repair

Re: VECTOR: Re: VECTOR: Omega Race repairwith a good set of probes that is??? I just put the probes together and press the on button and it resets to 0 ohms again!
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: John Robertson
  To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
  Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 3:34 AM
  Subject: Re: VECTOR: Re: VECTOR: Omega Race repair

  Hmm, I wonder is our Dick Smith ESR kit might work here? The Dick Smith (designed by Bob Parker in AU) ESR Kit K-7214 meter goes down to 0.01 ohms...with a good set of probes that is! I recommend you check out Probetronix.com for those. They give a slight discount for our customers ($1US off) for the tweezer probes if you show them the invoice...

  John :-#)#

  At 3:39 AM -0500 10/12/06, Rodger Boots wrote:
    Zonn wrote:

      On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 07:23:32 +0400, peter jones <highwayman2000@mail.ru> wrote:

        -----Original Message-----
        From: "simon" <simonjhanlon@btopenworld.com>
        To: <vectorlist@vectorlist.org>
        Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 23:07:04 +0100
        Subject: VECTOR: Omega Race repair

          Today I thought it was time I fixed my Omega Race, I have a few spare boards for it, most with some acid damaged. I found one that was fairly clean and replaced the 2 ram sockets near the battery. On power up the + and - 15v regulators were getting too hot to touch, I checked between the 2 and had a reading of 35 ohms between the-15 and 15v lines. I suspected one of the Op amps or a DAC was to blame. After pulling 3 of the 4 Op amps I found the bad one,
               

        couldnt you find the bad one by burning your finger on it?
        that works pretty good with dram a lot of the time.
           

      That's a good point!

      I'll bet one of those infra-red temperature pointer thingies would work well in
      spotting parts that are overheating. You know, after you've burned away the
      nerve endings on your 10th finger...

>From the ad at the top of Google:

      http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/newequipment/irthermometers.htm?gclid=CI3fptHX8ocCFQU8YQodskxUjQ

      -Zonn

    Or just finally get a much better ohmmeter.
    At my Real Job I have an HP 34401 multimeter. A use it for finding which one of 19 paralleled capacitors is shorted. I put it in the 20 ohm range, select 6-digit mode (measuring 1/10 of a milliohm), and it has a min/max mode. With all that going all you have to do is probe each part---the last one that makes it beep (because it was the lowest reading) is the shorted part. Too bad it costs several hundred dollars for one of those.

    A much cheaper way would be to clip your meter across the two power supplies and spray one part at a time with freeze mist. Whichever part gives you the largest resistance change is the shorted part. (That's too simple, can't possibly work---or can it?)

    Or, if you can't even afford a meter there is another simple way. Frost up all the parts in question and turn it on. The first one to defrost is the bad one.

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Received on Thu Oct 12 15:18:21 2006