Re: Re: Omega Race repair

The probes that come with the Dick Smith ESR kit we sell are really
rather sad...inconsistent readings are common. That's why I recommend
getting a set of good quality probes...

John :-#)#

At 8:18 AM +1300 10/13/06, matt wrote:
>with a good set of probes that is??? I just put the probes together
>and press the on button and it resets to 0 ohms again!
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:pinball@telus.net>John Robertson
>To: <mailto:vectorlist@vectorlist.org>vectorlist@vectorlist.org
>Sent: Friday, October 13, 2006 3:34 AM
>Subject: Re: VECTOR: Re: VECTOR: Omega Race repair
>
>Hmm, I wonder is our Dick Smith ESR kit might work here? The Dick
>Smith (designed by Bob Parker in AU) ESR Kit K-7214 meter goes down
>to 0.01 ohms...with a good set of probes that is! I recommend you
>check out Probetronix.com for those. They give a slight discount for
>our customers ($1US off) for the tweezer probes if you show them the
>invoice...
>
>
>John :-#)#
>
>At 3:39 AM -0500 10/12/06, Rodger Boots wrote:
>
>>Zonn wrote:
>>
>>>On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 07:23:32 +0400, peter jones
>>><mailto:highwayman2000@mail.ru><highwayman2000@mail.ru> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>-----Original Message-----
>>>>From: "simon"
>>>><mailto:simonjhanlon@btopenworld.com><simonjhanlon@btopenworld.com>
>>>>To: <mailto:vectorlist@vectorlist.org><vectorlist@vectorlist.org>
>>>>Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 23:07:04 +0100
>>>>Subject: VECTOR: Omega Race repair
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Today I thought it was time I fixed my Omega Race, I have a few
>>>>>spare boards for it, most with some acid damaged. I found one
>>>>>that was fairly clean and replaced the 2 ram sockets near the
>>>>>battery. On power up the + and - 15v regulators were getting
>>>>>too hot to touch, I checked between the 2 and had a reading of
>>>>>35 ohms between the-15 and 15v lines. I suspected one of the Op
>>>>>amps or a DAC was to blame. After pulling 3 of the 4 Op amps I
>>>>>found the bad one,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>couldnt you find the bad one by burning your finger on it?
>>>that works pretty good with dram a lot of the time.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>That's a good point!
>>
>>I'll bet one of those infra-red temperature pointer thingies would
>>work well in
>>spotting parts that are overheating. You know, after you've burned away the
>>nerve endings on your 10th finger...
>>
>>>From the ad at the top of Google:
>>
>><http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/newequipment/irthermometers.htm?gclid=CI3fptHX8ocCFQU8YQodskxUjQ>http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/newequipment/irthermometers.htm?gclid=CI3fptHX8ocCFQU8YQodskxUjQ
>>
>>-Zonn
>>
>
>Or just finally get a much better ohmmeter.
>At my Real Job I have an HP 34401 multimeter. A use it for finding
>which one of 19 paralleled capacitors is shorted. I put it in the
>20 ohm range, select 6-digit mode (measuring 1/10 of a milliohm),
>and it has a min/max mode. With all that going all you have to do
>is probe each part---the last one that makes it beep (because it was
>the lowest reading) is the shorted part. Too bad it costs several
>hundred dollars for one of those.
>
>A much cheaper way would be to clip your meter across the two power
>supplies and spray one part at a time with freeze mist. Whichever
>part gives you the largest resistance change is the shorted part.
>(That's too simple, can't possibly work---or can it?)
>
>Or, if you can't even afford a meter there is another simple way.
>Frost up all the parts in question and turn it on. The first one to
>defrost is the bad one.
>
>
>
>
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Received on Thu Oct 12 16:14:23 2006