Re: 13" Amplifone problems solved

From: Pat Danis <patdanis_at_verizon.net>
Date: Mon Jun 21 2010 - 23:11:22 EDT

I would like to take this opportunity to thank Kevin for his dedicated work in solving the quandary.  I have to admit I am the guilty one that supplied Kevin with the incorrectly configured Pat monitor.  I would also like to point out something he forgot to mention; I didn't hack it.  He received it the same way I did.  I am very grateful to have someone as knowledgeable as Kevin to be able to handle the many curve balls I've thrown at him lately.

I seem to be a hack magnet for arcade items.  However, I like to look at it as job security and o.j.t. for Kevin.  Pretty soon he'll be able to quote parts of the Amplifone manual from memory.  I only wish I had the time he does to work on my many projects.

For those of you that would like more photos of the Pat 9000 amp monitor, I am providing a link to my photos of a second monitor.  You will note that this particular board set has not been cleaned or hacked and actually fired up on first try.  I can honestly say that I have finally seen a dedicated working red flyback.  (Although this one is different from the standard HV units on the regular amplifones)

These photos will only last on my site as long as I have room for them.  If you would like to copy and use them by all means do so.

http://picasaweb.google.com/pat.danis/Pat9000Amplifone?feat=directlink

Thanks again Kevin.

Pat

On 6/21/2010 6:13 PM, Kevin Moore wrote:

Here is a link to some pictures with notes. Perhaps someone would like to put these on a server somewhere. As I'm not sure how long they will stay on my photo site.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Talon.K/13Amplifone?feat=directlink

Kevin

On Mon, Jun 21, 2010 at 3:15 PM, Kevin Moore <talon.k@gmail.com> wrote:

First the Cinelabs HVT will work. It will require moving the MCI. In my case I was able to use one of the original holes, and drill another to mount it, and made a small wire bridge to that pin. It fits snug into the corner of the HV cage.

Next, the Anode wire sticks out the top, so you will have to drill a hole in the mesh cage, disassemble the anode cup to run the wire, and mount the mesh cage.

There was a mod on the solder side of the deflection board, after going through it, it looks to be a ground modification. There is mention of the grounds being bad going to the two big power filter caps. Apparently this was someone's way of solving the ground problem.

The Spot killer light being on all the time, turned out to be Q17, and 18 in backwards.

The final piece of the puzzle.. The RGB inputs do not plug into the deflection board. They plug into the neck board. The deflection board is labeled RGB, gnd gnd gnd. The neck board is not labeled. So the previous owner plugged it in wrong. Moving the plug, Red being on the outer most pin, then green, then blue.

I would like to thank Rodger for tremendous knowledge and help last night, and today.
I would also like to thank Pat for getting off his butt, and opening up the other 13" Amp and sending me pictures. I love you Pat.. Yes I do.. :) lol

So as it stands, all colors are present, and separate, but equal. No retrace lines, and the spot killer works..

I really hate working on Hacked stuff (Pat)

Kevin
 

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2954 - Release Date: 06/21/10 13:36:00

  

--------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** Unsubscribe, subscribe, or view the archives at http://www.vectorlist.org ** Please direct other questions, comments, or problems to chris@westnet.com Received on Mon Jun 21 23:11:25 2010