Re: Wicked intermittant Amplifone (Ampliphone) issue

P.S. To answer your other question, after a few hours under normal operating
conditions, it's normal for the flyback core to be warm. Unless by "warm",
you mean it was glowing orange.

On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 11:24 AM, Cinelabs Info <cinelabs.info@gmail.com>wrote:

> The most common cause of the symptom your described is the screen and/or
> focus wires fraying, oxidizing or breaking underneath their boots on the
> focus assembly.
>
> For starters, I'd pull back the boots, cut, strip and *TIN* the focus and
> screen connections, then re-terminate them on the focus assembly. I would do
> this, even if the "look" good. Ensure there are no sharp points left after
> your final cut.
>
> You might do one wire at a time, just to ensure they don't accidentally get
> swapped.
>
> Also check the connection to the flyback, but this is usually ok, as it was
> re-terminated during the most recent installation of the flyback itself.
>
> After that, you would need to supply voltage readings (i.e. anode, screen
> and focus) for further diagnosis.
>
> I don't think I caught your name, or you forgot to sign your post. What's
> you name again?
>
> Thanks,
> -Mark
>
> On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 12:39 AM, pj pj <pj1@shaw.ca> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I have an interesting one that makes you go "OH $%#&".
>>
>> Having been awhile , I flashed up my starwars and after a few hours of
>> running normally, I glanced at the screen, and found a super bright,
>> swollen, out of focus and light greenish game display, with the game
>> running.
>>
>> Since the tube had a deflection loss sometime in the past, there already
>> was a small burn spot, but now its' a lot worse (<1/4"). I installed a
>> Cinelabs transformer in the past to replace a dead/red, which I checked
>> almost right after I powered the game off, and found the ferrite core warm.
>>
>> Cautiously restarting the game with the screen down, I slowly brought the
>> control up with a cross hatch, and it did the same behaviour again, with the
>> brightness up.
>>
>> I'm wondering if I have a bad rectifier in the transformer, a bad
>> focus/screen resistor block (connections are fine), or a tube with an
>> intermittent H-K short. The 24V regulators are fine and have mil-spec metal
>> power resistors replacing (as in Andre's rebuild) the regulator bypass ones
>> now mounted to the main heatsink and the board was fully rebuilt.
>>
>
>

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Received on Wed May 11 12:29:32 2011