Re: Wicked intermittant Amplifone (Ampliphone) issue

From: Cinelabs Info <cinelabs.info_at_gmail.com>
Date: Wed May 11 2011 - 12:24:20 EDT

The most common cause of the symptom your described is the screen and/or
focus wires fraying, oxidizing or breaking underneath their boots on the
focus assembly.

For starters, I'd pull back the boots, cut, strip and *TIN* the focus and
screen connections, then re-terminate them on the focus assembly. I would do
this, even if the "look" good. Ensure there are no sharp points left after
your final cut.

You might do one wire at a time, just to ensure they don't accidentally get
swapped.

Also check the connection to the flyback, but this is usually ok, as it was
re-terminated during the most recent installation of the flyback itself.

After that, you would need to supply voltage readings (i.e. anode, screen
and focus) for further diagnosis.

I don't think I caught your name, or you forgot to sign your post. What's
you name again?

Thanks,
-Mark

On Wed, May 11, 2011 at 12:39 AM, pj pj <pj1@shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have an interesting one that makes you go "OH $%#&".
>
> Having been awhile , I flashed up my starwars and after a few hours of
> running normally, I glanced at the screen, and found a super bright,
> swollen, out of focus and light greenish game display, with the game
> running.
>
> Since the tube had a deflection loss sometime in the past, there already
> was a small burn spot, but now its' a lot worse (<1/4"). I installed a
> Cinelabs transformer in the past to replace a dead/red, which I checked
> almost right after I powered the game off, and found the ferrite core warm.
>
> Cautiously restarting the game with the screen down, I slowly brought the
> control up with a cross hatch, and it did the same behaviour again, with the
> brightness up.
>
> I'm wondering if I have a bad rectifier in the transformer, a bad
> focus/screen resistor block (connections are fine), or a tube with an
> intermittent H-K short. The 24V regulators are fine and have mil-spec metal
> power resistors replacing (as in Andre's rebuild) the regulator bypass ones
> now mounted to the main heatsink and the board was fully rebuilt.
>

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Received on Wed May 11 12:24:22 2011

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