Re: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

both will react and cause wrinkle/warpage. best to just warm the material slowly with heatgun and use a safe glue.

david grohowski
electronicamuse@aol.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Bayes <RobertAB@swbell.net>
To: vectorlist <vectorlist@vectorlist.org>
Sent: Thu, Nov 10, 2011 11:31 pm
Subject: RE: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

Thanks, William. Hopefully, I can find a vendor of these gels here in Houston because I would like to try several colors. I’ll still get a blue filter just to keep it close to stock.
 
On another note, the side art has curled away from the sides along the edges in a couple of small areas (say <3 sq. in.). If I wanted to refasten it to the side, are there any recommendations? Would a spray adhesive be strong enough or should I use contact cement? I thought about contact cement and using wood clamps during the curing process but I’m concerned that adhesive may react with the side art material.
 

From: owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org [mailto:owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org] On Behalf Of William Boucher
Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 9:00 PM
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Subject: Re: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

To replace the blue filter, I used Roscolux #369 Tahitian Blue. One sheet costs maybe $10. It's a little thinner than the original but works fine.

There's a link to the supplier on my site here: http://www.biltronix.com/asteroids_dlx.html

Also, when I installed a brand new CRT in my machine, it had a slight glow as well. So did my upright Battlezone. I'm sure it was caused by the slight amount of UV black light hitting the screen. In both cases, adding the color filter eliminated the glow.

If you enjoy the white vectors, I think you can find a UV-only filter sheet within the Roscolux or Lee Filters lines. There are hundreds available so there must be one.

William Boucher
http://www.biltronix.com

----- Original Message -----

From: Robert Bayes

To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org

Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 3:25 PM

Subject: Re: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

Thanks, Rodger. I just found out why it appears this way. Originally, there was a blue filter over the monitor that apparently eliminated (or significantly reduced) this glow. Mine has the cardboard bezel but, no filter. Personally, I prefer the white image so maybe I'll try just a neutral density filter of some type if it bothers me enough. The bulb is definitely a black light bulb as my white T-shirt glowed bluish while I was futzing around in there.

From: Rodger Boots <rlboots2@gmail.com>
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Sent: Thu, November 10, 2011 2:02:15 PM
Subject: Re: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102
Make sure fluorescent bulb that lights the background is a "blacklight blue" bulb (will appear as black with power off, faint purplish when lit).

On Nov 10, 2011 12:55 PM, "Robert Bayes" <robertab@swbell.net> wrote:

The picture looks perfect on my repaired 19V2000 with one exception. There is a faint glow to the screen which is hardly noticable until you look at it installed into the cabinet. That glow becomes visible when reflected off the mirror and compared to the background image. Sort of takes away a little of the impact of that effect. Since it's been so long since I've seen another functioning Asteroids Deluxe, I can't remember if that is normal or not. I've tried adjusting both the brightness and contrast controls but, I can't minimize it any more. I can certainly live with it but, as obsessed as we all are about these things, we strive for perfection. Is this glow normal?

Thanks.

From: John Robertson <pinball@telus.net>
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Sent: Tue, November 8, 2011 5:38:39 PM
Subject: Re: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

Robert Bayes wrote:

Nevermind. I cleaned the HV diode connections and put a little pigtail in each end of the diode so it would make better connection. Now it’s a rock steady 14kV. John Robertson tried to help me with this monitor ten years ago and I never got back to him. Although I suspect you don’t remember and I hope you’re not mad John but, I had to drop it due to RL intervention. However, I used the B&W Vector Monitor FAQ guide to help me so, in a way, you were still helping me since you contributed to the FAQ.
 
A very belated thanks.
 
Robert
 
 

Glad to help - even if it was years ago!

HV diodes and their connections can lead to interesting things happening with the HV cages. A bad connection to the diode or failing diode can generate a surprising amount of heat - enough to char the rubber shield(s) on the connector!

John :-#)#

From: owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org [mailto:owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org] On Behalf Of Robert Bayes
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2011 3:34 PM
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Subject: RE: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

 
Okay, so I did a HV cap kit; replaced the HV rectifier with an VARO 1812 diode and replaced the bridge rectifier. It no longer blows a fuse but, it is blooming like a pulsating heart and I only read about 7KV of high voltage. I cannot adjust it any higher. Can someone suggest something else?
 
Thanks.
 
 

From: owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org [mailto:owner-vectorlist@vectorlist.org] On Behalf Of Robert Bayes
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2011 11:55 AM
To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
Subject: VECTOR: 19V2000 blowing F101 and F102

I have a 19V2000 in an Asteroids Deluxe and, after about ten minutes, it blows F101 and F102. Looking at the prints, it seems that it feeds the 38V to the high voltage board. The surprising thing is that it blows both a 5 amp and the 1 amp fuse with only a diode separating them. Since this is heat related, I'm looking for suggestions as to what's likely to need replacement based on the experience of the community around here. I haven't put a cap kit on it yet but, what else should I look for?

Does the bridge rectifier (DB100) fail often? How about C900? Does that ever fail shorted?

Many thanks.

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Received on Fri Nov 11 00:47:01 2011