Re: How do i check the clock circuit?

From: John Robertson <pinball_at_telus.net>
Date: Tue Sep 24 2013 - 13:06:42 EDT

On 09/24/2013 8:45 AM, Jonathan Koolpe wrote:
> Joel,
>
> I can chime in here a little to recommend that if you start needing to
> remove unsocketed chips from your board that you pick up a relatively
> cheap solder reworking station (such as those listed here
> <http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=soldering+rework+station&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=21134554221&hvpos=1t3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=839441463805020909&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_2xo9e1c30x_b>).
>
> I used to have difficulties removing unsocketed chips without pulling
> up traces, particularly on Atari boards. But once I got the rework
> station and learned how to use it, I never have this problem anymore.
> Removing these chips is now a snap :) .
>
> But do be sure to watch a video on how to use it properly so you don't
> damage your board...It's not hard or anything, but watching it used by
> someone else first will be very helpful...there are plenty of youtube
> videos to show how to use it. Here
> <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_JGCNNADp4> is one.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Jon
Joel & Jon,

I would really recommend that people first PRACTICE on an unimportant
PCB!!! Learning how to remove ICs on your expensive/valuable/only game
board is not a great idea...

I've trained hundreds of students in the safe removal of ICs from our
junk boards (local work experience program) and the first few are almost
always damaging to both the PCB and IC...

John :-#(#
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Date: Tue, 24 Sep 2013 09:52:03 -0500
> From: patdanis@verizon.net
> To: vectorlist@vectorlist.org
> Subject: Re: VECTOR: How do i check the clock circuit?
>
> Joel:
>
> I salute your dedication in attempting to get your board set working.
> You might have considered starting on something a little bit easier.
> I have been doing this for at least 10 years and my skill set at
> fixing boards is what I consider "very basic". That is, running the
> self test and replacing chips identified as bad. After that, if you
> do find something that is wrong, chances are you will not have the
> parts you need to fix it. There are the very common chips scattered
> throughout he board that are easy to find, it is the unique parts that
> might give you the fits.
>
> If you do find the problem, you need to be certain you know what you
> are doing when replacing chips. Can you cleanly desolder chips
> without ripping pads or traces and reinstall a socket? If not, You
> might stop now and consider sending the board off to a "pro" (Not me)
> and let them tackle it. It costs more in the long run for them to fix
> other people's screw ups. It is certainly admirable to learn to fix
> things yourself but it might be better to start on a simple board like
> a pacman etc.
>
> There is a Star Wars trouble shooting guide available and a ton of
> information on the web about star wars issues. Who knows, you might
> get lucky and find the problem and change a chip and be up and
> running. (I doubt it) Based on my experience with SW board sets, you
> have a long road ahead of you. I know two guys who fix them and I
> consider them brainiacs when it comes to board repairs. They still
> have problems sorting out all the issues.
>
> Best of luck in your endeavors.
>
> Pat
>
> On 9/24/2013 8:32 AM, Joel Griffin Dodd wrote:
>
> Thanks guys, the info on spotting a clock visually was especially
> helpful. Sometimes the skill level of guys that have been doing
> this work for such a long time skips past many of the most basic
> yet useful pieces of information that a newbie simply doesn't yet
> know. Now at least I know what to look for on the PCB in the
> 'real' world as well as the schematic.
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 24, 2013 at 2:08 AM, Andre Huijts <a.huijts@upcmail.nl
> <mailto:a.huijts@upcmail.nl>> wrote:
>
> The clock signals are generated using crystals. They are easy
> to ID, usually a flat aluminum colored can:
>
>
>
>
> More modem versions look like this, if you see these, the
> crystal has probably been replaced in more recent years:
>
>
>
>
> This may sound weird but your first work should be visual.
> Check if the crystals are there at all and if they are still
> firmly soldered. I actually started measuring for a clock
> signal only to discover some seconds later that it was
> missing :) The crystals often get damaged or broken off during
> stacking PCBs or transport because they stick out high above
> all the other parts. This is also why I prefer to replace them
> with the smaller modern types.
>
> A general visual inspection is always a good idea. Look for
> damaged tracks, bad sockets etc. in case of SW PCB set, make
> very sure the interconnection board is on really tight.
>
> Verstuurd vanaf mijn iPad
>
> > Op 24 sep. 2013 om 10:49 heeft Andrew Welburn
> <andy@andysarcade.net <mailto:andy@andysarcade.net>> het
> volgende geschreven:
> >
> > You need to get the manual and schematics and read them,
> they you will know where all these things are...
> >
> > Andrew Welburn
> > http://www.andys-arcade.com
> >
> >> On 23/09/2013 23:33, Joel Griffin Dodd wrote:
> >> Thanks Ed!
> >>
> >> No problem on waiting for the probe to arrive, I'm moving
> house this
> >> week so I have plenty to keep me busy.
> >>
> >> How do I physically identify a clock/chip/oscillator on a
> board? Also
> >> how do I know which line out is the clock line?
> >
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>
>
>
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-- 
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Received on Tue Sep 24 13:06:52 2013

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