Re: 6100 help

The b+ comes off of the neck board if I remember correctly, there is a pin
in the molex connector where it goes to teh HV cage. I was able pull the
connector out just enough to put a multimeter probe into it (the kind that
will hold onto the pin) and then twist the pot in the HV with a plastic
adjustment tool.

Once the monitor stays on though, B+ will keep changing for a good 30 mins,
so it's best to let it warm up then make your final setting.

I don't have it in front of me, but I think it was +180 volts?

Jimmy

On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 9:41 PM, Joel Griffin Dodd <griffindodd@gmail.com>wrote:

> Have to admit I missed checking that, doh! How do you do it on a 6100
> On Feb 8, 2014 7:40 PM, "Jimmy Ipock" <jipock@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> How's the B+ look?
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Feb 8, 2014 at 9:14 PM, Joel Griffin Dodd <griffindodd@gmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all.
>>>
>>> Trying to repair the 6100 in an Atari Space Duel I picked up.
>>>
>>> Did a Bob Roberts kit on the HV and an LV2000 on the deflection with
>>> replacement caps and replacement transistors on the chassis. The deflection
>>> powers up on its own and voltages on the LV2000 test good.
>>>
>>> With everything assembled the monitor powers up for about 2 seconds and
>>> then the HV box makes a click and the + 26v LED on the LV2000 goes out,
>>> this happens about 1 second after the spot killer led at D800 turns off on
>>> power up. Even after the click I still have the white spot of doom on the
>>> tube and neck glow but no picture. Game plays blind and fine.
>>>
>>> I can repeat this process by powering off and back on again. No fuses
>>> are blown
>>>
>>> Prior to the rebuild the monitor had burned out the LV area of the
>>> board.
>>>
>>> Looking for suggestions at this point.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Joel
>>>
>>
>>

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Received on Sat Feb 8 22:48:55 2014