Re: TECH: Kortek Videomaster monitor failures

I have always wondered cost justification of monitors myself. Having 2 kids and a
wife that wont go to sleep without the tv on, my tv set is on almost 24 hrs a day
itself. A monitor running 24/7 will most likely last 10 before burn become
unacceptable so what the point.... I tend to get at least 10 years from a set.
    On a related note, since we are talking about cheep monitors, Don't buy Happ
monitors right now. Happ monitors tend to be very cheep compared to a WG or NeoTec
monitor but there are quality issues with Happ monitors right now, in construction
and in electrical layout giving the monitors sync probs.
    To explain the issues more...I use to buy lots of 10 from Happs. 2 years ago,
the company that made Happs monitors was doing a good job and overall. About a year
ago, Happs contracted their monitors to another supply house and quality went down
the dumps. Missing from the last Happs revision is a shield around the flyback.
(this is the best way to identify the old vs the new) As a result of the missing
guard, the PC board is very week by the flyback and cracks when the monitor is
shipped.
I had to return 4 of them from my las lot because of this. I wont even get into the
other issues but the end of this story is that Happs dropped their "new" monitor
house, and when they did the monitor manufacture went out of business. Moral of the
story is that there is no cheep monitors for sale at this point. Stick to a WG.

-=Mark=--

Werner Sharp wrote:

> I found a manual scan here...
>
> http://www.hypertech.com/arcade/monitors.asp
>
> And Bob Roberts has replacement Kortek flybacks for $25. One monitor was
> marked "bad flyback" when I got it and after plugging it in to test it out,
> I believe it.
>
> As a general monitor question, the 160 volts comes out of the flyback and
> then through the circuit? So if a component was bad, it would on the fuse
> side away from the flyback, correct?
>
> Lastly, does anyone know why arcade monitors are so expensive? I new 19"
> TV is $120 from Best Buy. Yet a new 19" arcade monitor with no housing,
> no tuner and no remote is $185 or so. Is it just economies of scale? Or a
> captive market?
>
> -Werner
>
> At 08:04 AM 10/17/2001 -0700, you wrote:
> >I have some schematics of these monitors (and other odd-ball ones from the
> >70's). Unfortunately the common problem is the flyback shorts out. I have
> >no spares of these. We usually drop in an Electrohome monitor when these
> >Korteks die...
> >
> >We do sell a LOPT/Flyback test meter kit and a capacitor ESR meter kit for
> >servicing monitors, check our site for more info on these @ www.flippers.com
> >
> >John :-#)#
> >
> >At 07:48 AM 10/17/01, you wrote:
> >>I did some searching for Kortek schematics a while back and found a site
> >>in Australia that had a lot of information about the monitors. You may
> >>want to search the net to find this site so you could ask the guy who
> >>runs it. As it turns out, the schematics I was looking for were not
> >>available online, so Kortek actually emailed a vector drawing of it for
> >>us. So you might even ask the source if they can offer any help. Maybe
> >>they have a flow diagram you could use.
> >>
> >>Jon
> >>
> >>At 10:28 AM 10/17/2001 -0400, you wrote:
> >> >I have two of these (both a 13" and a 19") that have bad monitor boards. I
> >> >have just started looking at them and they both have blown fuses (F602).
> >> >Has anyone worked on a lot of these monitors? Is there a specific component
> >> >that dies most of the time? What would cause F602 to blow? It looks to me
> >> >that it's used on the 160 volt circuit. The 160v comes out of the flyback
> >> >so I should be looking for a shorted component on the side of the fuse away
> >> >from the flyback, right?
> >> >
> >> >Thanks for any suggestions.
> >> >
> >> >Werner Sharp
> >> >sharpw@bellsouth.net
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >> >** To UNSUBSCRIBE from rasterlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in the
> >> >** message body to rasterlist-request@synthcom.com. Please direct other
> >> >** questions, comments, or problems to neil@synthcom.com.
> >>
> >>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >>** To UNSUBSCRIBE from rasterlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in the
> >>** message body to rasterlist-request@synthcom.com. Please direct other
> >>** questions, comments, or problems to neil@synthcom.com.
> >
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >** To UNSUBSCRIBE from rasterlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in the
> >** message body to rasterlist-request@synthcom.com. Please direct other
> >** questions, comments, or problems to neil@synthcom.com.
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ** To UNSUBSCRIBE from rasterlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in the
> ** message body to rasterlist-request@synthcom.com. Please direct other
> ** questions, comments, or problems to neil@synthcom.com.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------
** To UNSUBSCRIBE from rasterlist, send a message with "UNSUBSCRIBE" in the
** message body to rasterlist-request@synthcom.com. Please direct other
** questions, comments, or problems to neil@synthcom.com.
Received on Wed Oct 17 14:43:48 2001