Tim Soderstrom wrote:
> Ok, the issue continues :)
>
> I talked to a guy here at work who cleared up some of my questions. It
> looks like I may need to re-align the electron guns to fix the color
> bleeding, and I will likely need a capkit to fix the screen bending.
> That said, I have a new concern and that was that I might have made a
> mistake by playing with the knob connected to the flyback (on the right
> side of the HV cage. He mentioned that tweaking this might cause X-rays
> to leak out of the tube due to basically an overvolt. I thought I would
> check with fellow arcade owners since his experience if for CRTs in
> general. Should I be concerned about this? And if so, is there a place I
> can look for adjusting this knob to normal limits?
There is NO high-voltage adjustment on a raster monitor. Only
adjustment that can affect high-voltage is the B+ adjustment on the
low-voltage power supply.
The adjustments on the flyback are focus and, if there's a second pot,
screen voltage. Focus will be the top pot, screen is closer to the
board. Focus changes focus, screen effectively set black level.
Color bleeding can be caused by having brightness set too high, a weak
CRT. If driven into saturation transistors will exhibit "storage time"
which shows up on monitors as bleeding. On black & white monitors this
happens when the contrast control is set too high. On color monitors
these controls are red drive, green drive, & blue drive.
You mention a V-sync control on the neck board. Not likely. But it
could be the screen pot (this is where it ends up if not on the flyback).
It would help to know what model monitor you have. It's a bit odd to
have 4 pots on the neck board, usually there would be 5 (red, green, &
blue drive and red & green cutoff).
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Received on Wed Sep 13 04:48:32 2006
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