Re: Amplifone tube w/ WG6100 electronics?

jason Milsom wrote:
>
> I'll back up Noel on his statements about the tube and yoke
> combinations. I have a WG 6100 with an amplifone tube and yoke and it
> works fantastic and has a beutifull picture. I just went out and took a
> look at it and the only part numbers I could find are the atari part
> numbers. The tube is a 19" 90 degree #a200009-01, and the yoke is a
> #a201108-01.
>
> The tube almost touches the HV cage. and the neck sticks out about 1
> 1/2" further than a stock 6100. But Yes. it can be done.
>
> Jason Milsom

As a follow up, I got bored last night and threw together a hybrid for
my Gravitar. I used the above combination, WG6100 boards/metal frame
with an amplifone yoke/tube (specifically the M48AAW00X medium res) out
of a Star Wars. Instead of swapping the base caps (plastic tips)
between the tubes, I opted for using the socket off of a broken
Electrohome G07 neck board. I had a WG6100 neck board with a broken
socket, so it worked out nicely. I removed the broken socket and
carefully soldered the G07 socket in it's place. There were one fewer
pins on the G07 socket to solder, but it turned out the equivalent pin
(pin #12) was a no connection pin on the WG6100 socket anyway.. I had to
splice the focus wire on the G07 socket, but that was no big deal.
Clearances were tight, as Jason mentioned. Rather than bend my precious
WG6100 frame, I stacked a couple big flat washers under each of the
corner mounting brackets of the tube. This served the dual purpose of
shortening the distance the neck of the tube extended beyond the rear of
the chasis. Could be helpful in a shallow cab. Luckily, Gravitars have
plenty of room for the neck of an amplifone tube - there was still a
couple inches to spare. However, this still didn't provide adequate
clearance between the tube and the HV cage. So I stacked 3 small flat
washers under each of the two rearward facing screws that hold the HV
cage to the metal frame. The washers served as spacers between the HV
cage and the metal frame. Unfortunately, this prevents any of the other
HV cage screw holes from lining up with the other metal frame (chasis)
holes. But I figure two screws should be adequate to hold the HV cage
and provide adequate grounding. I was concerned about the wiring/molex
on the amplifone yoke, but it turned out to be the exact molex and
pinout of a Wells Gardner yoke. Just plug it in and it works! I also
had to remove the degausing coil and ground spring from the amplifone
tube, in favor of the ones already mounted inside the metal shield of
the WG6100 chasis. Had I chose to use the amplifone degausing
coil/ground spring, I would have had to splice on a new molex for the
degausing coil.

What did the picture look like? Very nice, indeed! I had to do some
adjusting of the pots on the game pcb to get the screen size down and
reduce the slight bowing effect (using the LIN pot). The additional
resolution comes in handy during the long view shots when the player's
ship is very small. Not a huge difference mind you, but noticeable. I
still have a little work to do on that neck board, as the focus is a bit
flakey and the colors are a bit off, but I am confident that is not a by
product of the combination of tube/boards.

Noel
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Received on Wed Apr 12 22:24:02 2000