RE: Re: Jumpy Star Wars Fixed / Degaussing Help Anybody?

I don't know what "a nuance" means so forgive me if that post confirms
this anyway, but, SO...

Do the continuity check on the coil to ensure that it is okay, and as
long as it is, when removed from the circuit checking for a line voltage
(whether dropping or not), I think it would be safe to assume you are
getting degaussing at startup :O)

Of course to be sure you could attach your test probes is such a way
that you can check it with the coil in place.

I have to point out at this point that if it's anything like a Hantarex
raster monitor, it is perfectly possible for someone to have wired the
monitor supply through the isolation transformer, but the degaussing
circuit direct to the wall plug. I've seen it before, so be VERY
careful.

Obviously could be totally irrelevant, if the degaussing circuit isn't
independent to the rest as it is on a Hantarex raster monitor. Anyway,
will go back into lurk mode again now!!

Martin.

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-vectorlist@synthcom.com
[mailto:owner-vectorlist@synthcom.com] On Behalf Of K. S.
Sent: 23 March 2003 21:36
To: vectorlist@synthcom.com
Subject: Re: VECTOR: Re: Jumpy Star Wars Fixed / Degaussing Help
Anybody?

This is sort of a nuance to that-

  Most degaussing circuitry works by allowing current through a
thermistor until it heats up. That's what would show the voltage across
the coil dropping off quickly. If you try to observe the voltage across
the degauss coil terminals without actually having the coil attached,
you probably wouldn't see it drop off at all.

  The coil IS the load that the current flows through that causes the
thermistor to increase in resistance. Kinda all works together, eh?

  This is generic information, as I have not checked out the schematics
for this monitor.

  Kerry Stillinger

Martin White wrote:

> Something that I don't think has come up so far...
>
> Regardless of how you end up solving your problem, the easiest way to
> determine if the internal degaussing coil is operating is to
> disconnect the plug and connect a voltmeter to the socket instead.
>
> Power the monitor up from cold and you should see a reading of 240v AC

> (110v if you're in the US) reducing rapidly to zero (over say 1 to 2
> seconds). If you DO see this, then check for continuity of the coil
> itself, if you also have continuity then your coil is working and just

> not man enough for the job at hand.
>
> If you don't have continuity, obviously, replace the coil. If you
> don't have line voltage dropping rapidly to 0v, then you have a
> suspect positor, or other degaussing circuit components. EASY.

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