Re: Centipede Working -- Thanks !

From: Joel Rosenzweig <Joel_Rosenzweig_at_hp.com>
Date: Fri Apr 02 1999 - 09:50:32 EST

I have found that sometimes you actually need to ADD solder to the
connection first in order to get the solder to flow nicely. Once I've added
solder, the braid is able to wick the solder out much easier. I don't
normally need to do this, but it has helped on especially stubborn pads. I
now use a desoldering station which makes the job much less of a painfully
slow task. But I've pulled dozens of chips from the Atari boards using the
braid, so you'll be OK with this technique. (Those 2114's and 74245's fail
WAY too often from these boards as far as I'm concerned!)

The other thing to do, is to make sure that each of the legs of the IC are
really free before you try to pry the chip out of the board. Using a needle
nose plier, wiggle each leg (from the solder side) to make sure it moves.
If it doesn't you'll know it's stuck and you'll only be damaging the trace
if you pull it. It takes a little longer to remove a chip, but the
discipline might help save that precious trace.

Joel-

-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher X. Candreva <chris@westnet.com>
To: vectorlist@mcfeeley.cc.utexas.edu <vectorlist@mcfeeley.cc.utexas.edu>
Date: Thursday, April 01, 1999 10:42 PM
Subject: Centipede Working -- Thanks !

>
>Chips came from BG Micro today, Centipede is working, and my wife is
happily
>playing in the basement. Thanks to all who gave input.
>
>I would like to ask now though if anyone has tips of desoldering chips from
>these old boards, for the next project.
>
>My tools consist of a 15/30W pencil and desoldering braid. I
suckeverything
>off the bottom, turn the board over, suck everything from the top. Repeat
>both sides, and usually the chip pops right out. That is-- usually it does.
>I can't seem to do these 80's Atari boards without destroying at least one
>trace.
>
>This one I only damamged one pin -- and damned if I could see it. After
>soldering in the socket (and finding the board didn't work), pin by pin
>check with a tester showed one as no connection. Reheating and dribbling
>solder down the hole did no good, so I grudgingly resorted to a jumper
wire.
>
>I almost feel silly asking for soldering hints, as I've been doing this
>since I was about 8, but I'm figuring part of the problem is the age of the
>boards. Is there a trick to doing this (other than being more carefull ) ?
>
>-Chris
>
>
>==========================================================
>Chris Candreva -- chris@westnet.com -- (914) 967-7816
>WestNet Internet Services of Westchester
>http://www.westnet.com/
>
>
Received on Fri Apr 2 08:51:35 1999

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